Sewing-machine.



No. 817,475. PATENTED APR. 10, 1906.

E. F. DURAND. `SEWING MACHINE.

APLIOATION FILED MAR.17.1904.

Nmlf/AJ/.r PATENTBD APR. 10, 1906. E. P. DURAND.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED 1411.11.17, w04.

SSHBETS-SHEET 2.

Mes e gwen/for, www@ y MQf/@Z/ /M/ yy PATENTED APR. l0, 1906,

E. F. DURAND.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR,17,1904.

3 SHBETSSHBBT 3.

ff/Lyenr lmuD/@WM 577 UNITED" STATES PATENT OFFICE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented April 10," 1906.

Application filed March 1*'7, 1904. Serial No. 198.666.

To LZZ 1071/0711/ it `mcty concern/.V l v Be it known that 1, ERNESTFREDERICK DURAND, a subject ofthe King of Great Britain and Ireland, and`a resident of London, England, have invented new and usefulImprovements in Sewing- Machines, of which the followingis aspecification.

This invention relates to an improvedcon-` struction ofdouble-chain-stitch sewing-machine for the production of overseam-work;

`and it has for its objects to enable an overstitch to be `formed thatshall be tighterand of better appearance than that hitherto proy ducedand in which the needle-loop shall be drawn up almostto disappearingpointon the under side of the fabric; to increase the strength oftheseam, so that it shall not gape V or show `a f and stretched; "toavoid damage to the thread while stitching is taking place, and toeconomize the needle-thread. Thisv typeof grinning stitch when openedmachine `is particularly adapted` for sewing sacks, although suitablefor other purposes.

The sewing-machine of my invention is mainly characterized by a looperarranged to rockin a verticalplane and adapted to enter and carry itsthread through the needle-loop formed underneath the work and thenpresent its own thread sidewise above the work to a s reader,oscillating in a practically horizonta plane and taking and spreadingsuch loop over the work until it is extended be-` yond the path of theneedle, and so permit the latter, with its thread, to enter downwardlythrough the loop into the work. Simultaneously with the downward strokeof the needle the looper retires and casts off the prior needle-loop,whereupon the stitch is immediately tightened up, so as to almostdisappearin the under side of the fabric.`

A distinguishing feature of thismachine is that all the operative artsof the same are disposed above the wor -plate and in sight of theoperator, so that they can be easily got at if needed.

I will now describe my invention with ref?` erence to the accompanyingdrawings, in which- Figure l is a frontelevation, partly in section, ofthe improved machine. Fig. 2 is a similar view of part of same, showingthe needle-thread pulled up andtightened. Figs. 3 to 8 are` dia rammaticviewson an enlarged scale, showing the relative positions of the needle,the looper, and the spreader during the formation of a stitch. Fig. 9 isa plan of Flw. thereof on the line 1 1 `11 of ig. 9,

an enlarged` scale.

Fi 10 1s an under side view of the same, an

11 is a section a piece of the work, showing the stitches on b In myimproved sewingl-rnachine I employ a` curved looper of U s apecomprising a short or operating limb a, a long limb or shank c', and abend or throat a?. a has a pointed endor nose with an eye b and arearwardly-extending uide-groove c for the looper-thread L, wlich isintroduced through an eye orthreading-hole d at the rear end ofsaidgroove. The shank a ofthe looper is firmly securedto the free end ofa lever e, which isfast on an axis e', above the,` u ,Y work-plate A tothe left of the needle B, and

Whose function is to rock the looper in avertical plane on theright-hand side of the needle, its range and time of motion' being suchr that When the needle is in its lowest position the nose of the looperis slightly to the left thereof, and when fully raised its nose is aboutlevel with the eye of the needle, and

the bend or throat a2 is below the work. The

looper thus constructed and arranged is eneach newly-formed needle-loopwithout disturbing the latter. i

The looper-operating mechanism consists of a crank f on the axis e andconnected by a rod h to the arm 'i of the needle-lever j, whlch is drvenfrom the main shaft K by an eccentric The spreader comprises a stem anda bent arm m, which` latter is flattened at its free end and is formedwith a rong or fork m. The stem of bent arm mis Xed in the end of Thelimb V 1 abled to enter its nose with its thread L into 3 an inclinedrocking spindle n, which is mounti ed in suitable bearings on the frameand im-` parts to said spreader a circular reciprocatin or swee ingmotion ina nearly-horizonta plane, tlie motion being obtained by meansof a crank n', mounted on the upper end of the spindle n and connectedby a rod n to a bell-crank lever n3, which is driven from the shaft c byan eccentric n4. The spindle n is mounted, preferably, at an angleoffifteen IOO degrees from the vertical in order that space has risen upto the path of said spreader the fork m of the latter is a little belowthe eye and close to the back of the looper. From this position thespreader moves toward the needle and at -the. same time catches thelooperthread L, which it asses below and I thread N is passed through anordinary tension device s and guide-eyes t t t2, and is then led fromthe back of the needle-lever y' under thestud p and over the pulley r tothe eye of the needle, the position of the said stud and pulley beingsuch that when 'the needlelever descends the stud p impinges againstvthe thread N close to the pulley 7", and thereby pulls the lower ortionof the thread tight at the moment w en the needle-loop is released fromthe looper, as seen in Fig. 2. The under or looper-thread L before beingthreaded into the looper may also pass through a thread-eyelet i).

Referrin tov Figs. -3 to 8, and more especially to Fig. 4, it will beobserved that the needle-loop while encircling the loo er is not'ldragged or increased in len th, an hence it does not become frayed oramaged.

The other parts of the machine not specially described are of ordinaryconstruction, although their form is somewhat alteredas to permit of thearrangement of all the working parts being located above the work-plate.

In my im roved machine the operation is as follows: 'iihe work havingbeen laced in position and the machine started, tiie needle descendswith its thread N and penetrates the work to the required distancebelow. As the needle retires its thread forms a loop below the work, andthe nose of the looper, with its thread L, immediately enters the saidneedle-loop, as indicated in Fig. 3, the needleloop encircling it andsliding down toward its throat a2; The needle and the looper then moveupward together, and by the time their upstroke is nearly Ycompleted thespreader m yhas advanced toward the looper, and its fork m catchesthe'looper-thread L near the eye b, asshown at Fig. 4, and pulls theportion thereof from between the said eye and the previously-formedstitch over the edge of the work and beneath the point of the needle, asat Fig. 5, thereby forming an overedge-loop of the looper-thread. Theneedle now descends and carries its thread N through the said loop, asshown in Fig. 6, while the spreaderwit draws. Concurrently with thismovement of the needle the looper is also traveling downward and whennearing the end of its travel casts olf the needle-loop x, as is shownin Fig. 7. At this moment the stud p comes into contact with theneedlethe stitch, as indicated in igs. 8 and 11. The stitch being thusproduced, reference to Figs. 9, 10, and 11 of the drawings will showAthat the needle-thread N lies in one vertical plane and forms a seriesof loops at :152 on the under side of the work and a series of straight'stitches y y y2 on the u per side thereof and that the looper-threadpasses through the loop on the under side over the edge of the work andaround the root X of the needleloop on the u per side of the work, thenback again to tlie under side through the nallyT to the next loop x',thus completing a full stitch, and so on, the needle-thread loo s ed eof the work.

at I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-'- n l. Anoverseam sewing-machine provided with a reciprocating needle and meansfor operatin it, an oscillating thread-carrying looper a apted to movein the arc of a circle whose center of motion is situate at a pointabove the cloth-plate, the thread carrying portion of said looper havingarange of movement in the path of said arc across the edge of the workand extending from a point below the cloth-plate to a point above it andadapted to both enter and cast off the needle-thread loop below saidcloth-plate, said thread-carrying portion of said looper acting to movethrough said needle-thread loop in entering and casting it off so as toalways maintain it below said cloth-plate at the same time carrying itslooper-thread loop above said clothplate, an oscillating s readeradapted to engage the looper-threa loop and to spread the same upon thework for the said needle to enter it, means for taking up saidneedle-thread after being cast off the looper, and means for actuatingsaid looper and spreader.

2. .An overseam sewing machine provided with a reciprocating needle andmeans for operating it, an oscillating thread-carrying looper mounted ona pivot situate above the cloth-plate and on that side ofthe needlewhich treatment, said looper comprising a air of limbs united by athroat-piece andl avin oneiofsaid limbs adapted to carry the threa andbeing so curved that it always lies and operates in the arc of a circlewhose center is coincident with the axis of said pivot, said looper beinadapted to both enter and cast off the nee le-thread loop below theclothplate, and a spreader en aging and spreading said looper-thread forte needle to enter it, and means for operating said looper and spreader.

thread N, as shown in Fig. 2, and tightens :ijiheneedle-loop, thusfinishin and perfecting being all in alinement-i. e., parallel with t eVis remote from the edge of the work under same loop from which it passeslongitudi- IOO IIO

3. An overseam sewing-machine provided with a reciprocating needle andmeans l'or operating it, an oscillating threadcarrying loupermounted ona pivot situate above the cloth-plate and on that side ul' the needlewhich is remote. l'rom the edge ul' the work under treatment7 saidlouper.comprising a pair of limbs u and c', throat-piece el uniting saidlimbs and the limbs l-ieing su curved that spreader.

4, An overseam sewing-1nachine provided with a reciprocating needle andmeans for operating it, an oscillating tln'ead-carrying curved louper ofa U shape and comprising a short limb provided with an eye near itspoint, a long` limb and a throat uniting it with said short limb,` thesaid louper havingits center of motion above thecloth-plate; thecurvatures ut said louper-limbs being substantially coincident with arcsstruck from said center of motion and the said luuperlimbs reciprocatingun said arcs and the said short limb thereby entering the needlethreadloup below the cloth-plate and substantially normal` to the plane of theloop and at the beginning of the upstroke of said louper, andsubsequently casting it otl on its downstroke below Said cloth-plate, tumaintain it below the level of said cloth-plate and to preventlengthening said needle-thread loop, an oscillating sqreader adapted toengage the louperthread loop and spread the same upon the work for thesaid needle tu enter it, means for taking up said needle-thread afterbeing cast uit the louper, and means for actuating said louper andspreader.

` 5. An uverseam sewing-machine provided with a reciprocating needle andmeans for operating it, an oscillating thread-carrying louper engagingthe needle-thread loop and assing its thread-carrying end through saidoop belowthe work and then casting uit' said loop below the work so asto maintain said loop always below the work, an oscillating spreaderengaging the looper-thread loop above the needle-thread loop after thelouper has passed through the latter and serving to spread suchlouper-thread loup above t-he work for the needle tu enter said loop,means 'for taking up said needlethread alter it is cast ull' the louper,and means' or operating said louper and spreader, whereby saidneedle-thread loop on the under side ul' the woi'hY is drawn into thesame plane with the needlethread upon the upper side and theneedlestitches are maintained in the said same plane.. y

(i. n overseam sewing-machine provided with a reciprocating needlI andmeans` for i operating it, a depending oscillating threadl carryinglooper adapted to move in the are ol' a circle whose center ot motion issituate at a point above the cloth-plate, the thread-ear rying end ofsaid louper having a range ol movement in the path ul" said areextending from a point below said cloth-plate tu the side ul5 the needleopposite to that on which the edge of the Work is caused to travel tu apoint above the cloth-plate and adapted to both enter and cast ull' theneedle-thread loup be low said cloth-plate and tu maintain saidneedle-thread loup below said clothplate, the point of said louper beingdirected upwardly un the end of its upstroke and directed substantiallyhorizontally on the end of its down stroke, an oscillating spreaderadapted tu engage the louper thread loup when passed through and raisedabove said needle-thread i loop and spread the luoper-`thread loop uponthe work 'for the said needle to enter it, means for taking up saidneedle-thread after being cast oli the louper, and means for actuatingsaid louper and spreader.

7. An ovcrseam sewing-machine provided with a reciprocating needle andmeans for operating it, an oscillating thread-e-arrying louper moving inthe arc4 of a circle whose center of motion is situate at a point abovethe cloth-plate and adapted to both enter and cast off the needle-threadloop below said cloth-plate and to :maintain said needlethread loopbelow said cloth-plate at the same time carrying its louper-thread loop`above said cloth-plate, a spreader adapted to engage said louper-threadwhen raised to spread it over the work and comprising a bent arm m, aforked end m on said arm, and an inclined spindle yn to which said bentarm is secured, and means for operating saidloopcr and spreader.

In witness whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence of twosubscribing witnesses.

ERNEST FREDERICK DURAND.

Vitnesses:

GEORGE E. MINTERN, H. D. JAMESON.

